Turkey’s Soul Food
Simit, the street food standby, is under threat.
Whether they enjoy it at breakfast, lunch, dinner, or snack time, Turks have a weakness for the simit. At all hours of the day, Istanbul residents can buy the bagel-shaped bread, served with a slather of mild cheese, from vendors with street carts, tray-toting men on foot, even Starbucks baristas. The state-mandated price: one Turkish lira (roughly 55 cents).
But these days Turks hunger for more than their daily bread, says Alisa Roth, a writer based in New York City, in Gastronomica. The Turkish economy is off and running, foreign companies have arrived with exotic...